By Ben Van Overmeire and Amy Westerhoff
Photographs by Jingying Yao
Introduction (Ben Van Overmeire)
Close to the bustle of Han Shan temple in Suzhou lies West Garden Temple 西园寺. Originally a part of the Lingering Garden 留园, during the Ming dynasty the temple became its own entity. Among its many interesting features are an Arhat hall that survived the Cultural Revolution and a pond where legend has it a 500-year-old turtle remains submerged (his companion died recently and was honored with a life-size statue).
Led by the energetic master Jiqun 济群, the temple hosts a great number of activities, both for Chinese and non-Chinese. The temple promotes weekly meetings discussing the master’s writings, which are accessible introductions to Buddhism and how its teachings can be applied to one’s daily life. Ven. Jiqun’s work is remarkable for its constant dialogue with Christianity and science, two ways of thinking that are coded as “western” and in which there is immense interest. I recently learned that in today’s China, “you’re not scientific” (你不是科学的) is a type of insult. As for Christianity, back when I was a language student in Beijing about 8 years ago, I came in touch with some upper-class Chinese who were very much interested in Christianity, particularly American Protestantism. At that time, it seemed to me that for many Chinese, the backbone of American global success is not only free-market capitalism, but also the Christian faith. So these things make Ven. Qiyun’s frequent comparisons of Buddhism with (scientific) materialism and Christianity an obvious thing: he is addressing the worldviews that also appeal to his lay urban community members.
In the Fall of 2019, I took a group of students in my Comparative Religious Studies class on a field trip to Xiyuansi. Duke Kunshan University, where I teach, features a great diversity of students, and this group of six was the same: the Chinese students came from all parts of China, and the international students came from South Asia and the US. One of the American students, Amy, comes from a Christian background, and she has written the following account of her experiences.
An Impression of Xiyuansi, by Amy Westerhoff
Upon entering the Xiyuansi Temple, we were greeted by the temple’s tranquil atmosphere, which powerfully captured all of the five senses. The vibrant yellow walls of the temple stood out from the scenic backdrop of greenery and blue skies. The temple was adorned with natural features, including mighty trees and lively flowers, as well as man-made designs, such as intricate patterns carved into stone fences. The smell of incense complemented the serene ambience. Occasionally, the meditative quietness of the temple was politely interrupted by the sounds of pigeons and trees blowing with the wind. And the tea (served to us later in the visit) reminded us of the hospitality of the monks, members of the temple, and of Buddhism in general.
As a Westerner in an Eastern country, stepping into any new place in China feels like stepping into the unknown. Sometimes, it can be difficult to see the similarities between the cultures of the United States and China. Fortunately, at other times, I notice the deep links between these two sides of the world. At the Xiyuansi Temple, I was able to discover connections between Christianity and Buddhism. Walking through the temple, I observed the exact same feelings of serenity, spirit of worship, appreciation for nature, and kindness that I experienced in Christian churches back home.
Surprisingly, the temple is situated in the lively urban Gusu District in Suzhou. Despite the location, the temple exuded us to a remarkable atmosphere of religious tranquillity. We were met by welcoming guides who introduced themselves, as well as the temple. Happily, one of the guides spoke English. We were given a detailed background of the temple’s history. Amongst other facts, we learned that the temple was rebuilt after it was destroyed by war in the 19th century.
We entered several buildings that protect ornate statues of the Buddha. The guides told us to walk around these statues in a clockwise fashion, always keeping the statue to the right of us. Here, we learned about the Buddhist practice of circumambulation. In the Buddhist tradition, visitors should walk clockwise around an object of veneration (in this case, the statues of the Buddha). This religious practice signals respect, and shows these objects of veneration to be central part of the lives of Buddhists. The magnificence of these statues was particularly striking. The statues were of an exquisite gold color. Colorful paintings and designs of flowers and landscapes embellished the wooden beams of the rooms. The base of the Buddha statues were lined with flowers brought by visitors. I had seen images of such statues on the internet or in museums. However, images are incapable of capturing the true essence of these statues. Within a religious environment, I viewed these statues in a new light. The meanings of the statues held much more weight after seeing them in person. Despite the grandeur of the statues, the atmosphere remained humble, warm, and welcoming. It struck me that the statue of the Buddha was revered with the same fervor as depictions of Christ in a Christian place of worship. The colorful designs that adorned the room reminded me of luminous stained-glass windows in Christian churches.
We then entered the Arhat Hall, a building with hundreds of statues of bodhisattvas, each unique in expression and pose. These statues were small in comparison to the ornate statues we had seen earlier, yet they still maintained the same grandeur. These golden statues lined the walls of a seemingly never-ending building. Every one of these statues had a distinct look. Some appeared excited, others surprised. Some were in a contemplative pose, while others reached their hands up to the skies. Even their facial hair differed. The intricacies and uniqueness of each of the statues reminded me of the terracotta soldiers I had seen in Xi’an.
We walked over to the pond, which was encircled by natural stone and lush trees. The pond cleanly reflected the colors of the picturesque blue sky and the magnificent greenery. This area of the temple accommodated a remarkable range of animals. Turtles (which are supposedly several hundred years old) and countless koi fish reside in the pond. A quaint building stands in the center of the pond with concrete walkways placed in a zig-zag pattern. The roof of this building is a popular sanctuary for pigeons and doves. We also saw several friendly cats relaxing near the pond. The gardens around the temple captured the same natural beauty and serenity of the gardens of the Christian churches I visited back in the US. The lightness of the air and the presence of birds and other animals resembled my childhood experiences of playing in the gardens of Christian churches with friends and family. Both gardens provided a beautiful area for visitors to relax while respecting nature as an entity that should exist harmoniously with humans, and connect us with our existential values.
We were then invited to have tea with a few members of the temple. We walked into a bright and orderly cafe-like room. We sat around a short-legged table on comfortable bamboo cushions. They offered us tea, fruit, and traditional Chinese snacks, including moon cake and sesame sticks. Without judgement, all of us zealously asked and answered each other's questions about religion, life, and China. The compassion and openness that we experienced during our visit reminded me of the same exact qualities I have experienced within the Christian faith. Although Buddhist and Christian practices are quite different, the fundamental values of treating one’s neighbors with warmth is shared. Love is the guiding principle of life In Christianity, and compassion is the guiding principle of Buddhism. The members of both religions are incredibly hospitable to any visitors, including those of different faiths.
In the end, I found the tenets of Buddhism and Christianity to be strikingly similar and stronger than the differences that separate them. In my Christian experiences, the concepts of worship, devotion, humbleness, and reverence were mirrored in my encounters at the temple. And just like music and emotions, faith and religion are able to extend past cultural differences and unite people together.
